Door uneven at bottom reddit. Place one on either side over the bottom edge of the door.
Door uneven at bottom reddit When it's positioned correctly, you retighten the door screws. Extending the door might not work. I believe it was originally sealed with felt tacked up on the jam, which is now long gone (and wouldn't even fit now because of the uneven gap). We just moved and the movers took off the doors to get in into place. Could you help this n00b out? Ok the most common issue is a shelf sticking out, first remove the shelves from the fridge door - this will 99% most likely fix the issue showing its a shelf. It’s a racket, but I paid $150 for the tech to change out the weather stripping, but he also balanced the door, oiled all the hinges, and other regular maintenance so my door was much quieter. Just barely set it snug. As a result there is a large gap under the door when it is closed (around 1. Use as much detail as possible. Make it level with shims. Kept the threshold to avoid binding on opening. Grab both doorknobs and lift. You might start with 2 shims on the bottom hinge, and one in the middle. The track that holds the seal screws onto the bottom of the door. It is designed to help slide the spring loaded door hinge into the cabinet. Door draft along side/top of door, not the bottom. If it's a exterior door, you may have to remove the weather stripping, make your adjustments, and then reinstall the weather stripping. Replaced both springs, but now on one side the door is about 1/4”-1/2” from the floor. Trying to finish up my bathroom project that includes a frameless sliding glass door with a fixed panel. Typically, a U shaped piece fits over either surface of the door and floats around until you fit it to the threshold and screw it in place. However it simply will not budge. And ideas as to how I can seal the gap? I’ve considered the brush seals used on some industrial garage doors, just not sure how well they’d help keep heat in. Pictures are too close to get a good idea, but maybe a large white trim piece spanning the whole bottom of the door. 73025710. Almost like a kick plate. However, because the floors are concave under the door, there’s still a gap. You can even shave the bottom at an angle if necessary. I woke up to a small snow drift in my front hall one morning. Otherwise, you need a new door. Is there any way to do a diy fix? Here's the door. I don’t see any damage on the unit. the stabalizer bar between the cogs can be unlocked and pulled to the side so I can move the right side/forward or backwards and then put the cog back onto the track. This. How should I approach this? Do I need to repair the concrete or just get a rubber bottom seal for garage door? If concrete needs to be fixed, to what extent? Looking to weatherstrip my front door bottom. Apparently the gasket is in good condition. A 'fast fit door' is no good in old construction, they are intended for 2x4 or 2x6 framed walls. I have an older, 2018 Samsung fridge. So it's more like the door is warped than the jamb being improperly installed. The cables both have pretty comparable tension when the door is closed. First check the door hinges are solidly fixed. install the door sticking out 1/4” at the bottom on one side, and sticking out 1/4” at the top on the other side. Dear op, I hope you read this. However the stripping at the bottom seems glued in or something. So I've got the seal now and it will need to be cut to fit. Hey I got just a new place and the door front required a little force to fully close. Example being an exterior door where the latch side leans towards the outside and the hinge side leans inside. Check the gap from door to frame at top & bottom. The suggestions to use stuff to pad the bottom of your door at VERY unlikely to work. Because when your door closes, it doesn't go down to start, it goes into the opening and curves down. Currently the patio door is uneven. They'll stay on when the door goes up and they'll fill the gap left when the door is down. The door's groove does not run full-width and ends maybe an inch or so before the end. Damn! Ok only idea i have is attach a pressure treated 2x to your concrete that spans the entire length of door. Open the door and put your feet on either side of the door. I’m thinking the door frame on the handle side is too high. It also depends on tour concrete. It appears that despite my complaint the neighbors have no interest in fixing it which for flippers is not surprising. So my one interior door is next to a wall. I’m having a hard time finding a video or information on how to level the door. A small shin under the hinge should help. 1 or maybe both of the top doors seems to be sagging a bit so that they are almost touching each other near the bottom. Sand and repaint. However the top and bottom bracket each have a screw on the center that if you loosen, allows you to slide the door pivot brackets horizontally. Oct 29, 2024 · Once that's done, and the door is operating well, add another screw in the bottom hinge, but don't tighten that one. However, the metal on the outside of the doors is too tough for my drill bit. I just noticed that my trim piece fits at the but not at the bottom. It would make the door appear level, but there would still be a light gap. I. I believe the proper solution would be to have the floor mud jacked or redone but until I am ready to do that I would like to create a temporary fix to keep debris and water out of my garage. I tried to install a door brush (meant for exterior screen doors), and this significantly reduced the gap. The draft is in the lower 1/3 of just one side (lock side). It looks like there is space between the threshold and door jamb (bottom left of door). Overall it was worth it, but still bizarre I couldn’t get standard weatherstripping to work. We had our porch re-leveled. The proper way is to custom cut the door, jams, stop and casing. That is what gives that door tension to stay closed or reclose after popping open a bit when the left is closed. Everything is leaning to the left so it pushes that door slightly up. New whirlpool side by side. According to the directions it should be forward facing to insert the door and then should rotate into place, except it won’t rotate. Place one on either side over the bottom edge of the door. Your garage door will come down and rest ontop of the 2x It appears they used planks that were not cut to proper height as the bottom edge is very jagged, the gap to the ground varies up and down inconsistently with some planks touching the ground and others with a gap as high as 5". I don't see why it would be an issue to put a little spray foam from the outside. Open the door and you’ll find a pair of 3/8” nuts on each side. The screw next to it, closer to the door, adjusts height which is not needed for this adjustment. Moving the stop is the easiest way to fix this, the other way is to move the bottom hinge away from the center of the jamb, and then move the center hinge 1/2 that amount. Also, the brush digs into the floor when the door is fully open. Too close to the frame and catching at the top, and farther away at the bottom, as well as not closing without “lifting” the door to a straighter position. You can rent an undercut saw, a jam cutter or oscillating tool at a big box store and cut off the excess. The concrete is a bit eroded and so the seal doesn't meet flush in an area. It would kinda sweep across the floor when opened or closed, but rats trying to get under the door would have to attempt to chew their way through it and would likely be stumped I think. My front door frame is warped in such a way that there is a significant draft coming through the side (where the knob/lockset are) and top of the door. The reason for this is because most doors by default will barely clear the frame when closing in the OEM build. I learned the hard way not to loosen both cable drums at the same time. Good opportunity to get one that has a built in screen that unrolls when you lower the glass. You may be able to have the door squared up if it is unlevel, but as advised, get a professional for that. Currently have automotive weather seal on both sides. Posted by u/PrinceDietrich - 1 vote and 1 comment Took a look and to my surprise, it's already got a Kerf style groove in the bottom. I've got 9 or 10 interior doors to paint. Problem is the bottom and top are sealed. I've been able to, or seemingly been able to, without having to release the tabs. Doors be a Unfortunately, the bottom of cube-shaped sink isnt perfectly flat or sloped towards the center. You can shim the bottom hinge to bring the top left of the door upward. This plastic piece seems to be the culprit. The right door it slightly higher but I just started putting items on the door. I ripped out the old weather stripping and replaced it with a new one and it looks like the bottom of the door keeps pinching the weather stripping and the looks to be the cause of the door not closing right. Had a spring break. With a normal install with a 3" bottom rubber like you have, you're missing your frame with little margin to spare. I checked the manual and it only talks about adjusting the right door vertically. If it is it might be able to be sanded if it is not to much. Hopefully you won't need to adjust the latch. Slit two pool noodles. Checking corners for square my also tell you something useful. To scribe the casing to the jamb just pin the casing in place over hanging the door jamb by a consistent width then cut a block the width of the over hang + your desired reveal typically 1/4 or 3/16 drag this block down the wall holding a pencil on the door casing to get your scribe line. The low side is on the control/drain side. It’ll “even out” at 37F in the deli drawer to 55*F on the top shelf. That's the budget answer. This will take some tweaking to find the sweet spot where there isn’t a gap when closed and yet the door will fully open. Any movement? Fix it. On the bottom or the right door should be a white hook. There has been some floor settling of my garage floor. I’m a handyGuy too!! With both doors closed, run your finger down the center of the space between the two doors. It may be that the best solution is to completely remove and reinstall your door jambs, or to loosen and adjust the jambs, rather than to try to adjust the hinges. Alternatively do what I had to which was use a support board the same width as inside of the closet - push them so they’re straight, screw the board to the wall into studs, attach mounting brackets to board instead of the wall. Any ideas on what to do? Before though I loosened the door frame and reset it to be square. Concrete is obviously high in the middle. Drive wedges between the stud and door jamb until the gap is reduced and even top to bottom. Grab a wrench and beat your eye area until the doors look Absolutely this! I remember the first time fitting a door and cut all the edges so it fit the frame perfectly and was so chuffed. Aug 18, 2023 · I have an exterior door that is uneven on the left side (right hand opening). Wedged the door at 45° to attach the hinges to the frame. Looking for any suggestions Sometimes there is a set of alignment tabs that go onto the inside of each door at the bottom. Can't realistically redo the tile on that wall. Looks like it is hitting at the bottom right side stopping it from fully closing. This causes the garage door to not be able to close properly. The shims will only raise/lower each door vertically - they don't allow for any other plane of adjustment, at least the ones that I have encountered haven't. Framers usually stay within 1/4” of perfect but if each side is 1/4” out of plumb in opposite directions then you’re left with a 1/2” problem. e. Open the door all of the way and measure the gap on both sides again. The fridge is dangerously uneven, with the deli drawer at the bottom freezing (27F) and the top shelf upwards of 60F. If the screws are solid & the gap is aligned / the door is square to the frame loosen both hinges slightly and lift it then re-tighten the screws. If you secured them to the wall, try again. I think someone closed it hard/something was blocking one side. If frame is right but door is not, problem is the door. Remove pin from the bottom hinge and use pliers to bend the loops back a bit. Wondering if maybe the door warped a little or if the door hinges could be moved to make the door more even. The first time I tried it was turning but I wasn’t sure if I was turning it the right I have floors that are uneven and there’s about a 1” gap between the floor and door bottom. I’m planning to add shims between the track and the door. If the gap is uneven then the fix may be easier if you're lucky; shim behind the lowest hinge on the short door or the highest hinge on the taller door with one or two pieces of If your garage door is noisy, it can be that, that side of the door is getting stuck on the rails when it's near the bottom - before you try anything else, just make sure that your door parts are lubed/greased and see if that simple solution does the trick on its own. . I own a Kenmore that has double doors on top half and a freezer on the bottom half. If you close the door the bottom of the door would hit before the top. If you have a Martin door the 1 3/8” is to small. Where the fixed panel contacts the wall, I have an uneven gap that is closed at the bottom and about 3/8in at the top. ) Used the nail gun to set up a board to provide a surface to route the new hinge depressions on the frame. Hard to tell with the pics. ) For a real "quick and dirty" fix you could try a solid mass of steel wool placed across the bottom of the door. I'm installing two 30-inch pocket doors in a bathroom in our mobile home for a 60-inch wide opening. 6 inch gape when closed is a lot smaller when open due to the frame or floor being uneven. Would it be possible to install a metal door sweep given how uneven the space at the bottom is? Hello all, So 2 of my exterior doors still have a draft, even though have a kerf foam weather stripping applied. The bottom of the door on the handle side isn’t even. The opening is 60". I bought two nice weatherstrips that slide snugly in the bottom of my doors. The current weatherstripping takes care of the top half (36" or so) but you can still see daylight on the bottom half. Fix it by lowering the high side of the door jam. The other 3 edges look good. (well, unlikely it will seal) The only fix will be to bring the floor up on that side. French doors on top, freezer drawer on bottom. The only downsize is some of my door thresholds are level with the floor, so a rubber door sweep gets caught and drags on the floor. ) Idk why the door is so uneven. When the guys left, I noticed that the door is a little uneven. When closed, there is a gap of roughly 3/4” on each side of the garage door. Some people toss them. Exactly. The door seal meets the floor on the sides, but not in the middle. Home owner newby and learning my way through home maintainence, I am replacing weather stripping for my back door. The bottom would be uneven. Replace it and you're all set. The bottom may have a smaller gap and the door will be at a slight angle. The bottom of the door is missing. Dec 23, 2010 · The gap is between the face of the door and the weatherstripping -- NOT between the edge of the door and the jamb. Haven't removed the door/basket . They are sending me thinner plates. One screw. Got a new garage door installed, new seals, whole nine yards. As long as the gap between the doors is a consistent width the only solution is to chisel each hinge plate out the height difference and lower the entire door that way. Once it closed and touched the ground, it corrected itself and looked fine. Then I clicked again and it went up, but as I was looking at the panels, they were still uneven with the door frame. This will bring the door out, raising the top or lowering the bottom. So I have a nice seal on the right half, and about 1/8in open to the elements on the left half. The hasp/staple has to sort of bend around and it just won't work. At the top the opening is 3/8" and narrows to a tight fit with the left door. I tried putting some 3/4" foam pipe insulation around the door seal to fill the gap, but that didn't help much at all really. This door leads to the unfinished basement. If it’s a sectional door, with springs at the top, you’ll need to check the cables and cable drums as one side would be more tensioned than the other causing the door to be unbalanced Kenmore Fridge model 111. Chances are the framing is not in a flat plane from top to bottom, so replacing the door will not do any good unless you offset the hinges. The door was originally set up (about 10 years ago) with almost maximum force setting to push the door down and close the unevenness but it has started to bend Use a crowbar and something to protect thw floor to adjust. Upon inspection I did not see anything right away, however when attempting to close the door, it is now uneven. How do I adjust uneven doors? Sealing Garage door, uneven floor / threshold. I've looked at guides on weatherstripping doors and most rely on a kerf, which this old door doesn't have. Or if your driving over the board, mix some concrete up to put under the board. If you have a really cheap door and frame, it's possible the door isn't square (really doubtful, though). That is to say on the right side where it closes, the door appears to extend about 1/8" above the top of the microwave body (and the bottom of the door is raised up that amount). Popping open a bit is not abnormal. Then you ensure that the rest of the jamb is properly shimmed so that there is an even gap between door and jamb, all the way around, and that the door hits the door stop evenly. Between the poor condition of the existing weatherstripping and my first time attempting this, I am struggling to determine the size and type needed. You may be able to tighten screws in hinges, or loosen them and shim between door frame and the two by. If you open the freezer, you should see the leveling screws at the bottom corner of each door. The inner screw on the face frame part of the hinge adjusts the door depth. I really want to make sure it's a good seal with no gaps. Now, I'm saying that assuming there is the opposite at the bottom, meaning the bottom of that side has a too-small gap. Also, the overlap of the right door from top to bottom is different. reReddit: Top Same with outside edge of door for plumb, top for level. Posted by u/International-Ad3147 - 1 vote and 4 comments Garage Door service advice. 25 inches from the jamb at the top of the jamb. Then maybe spray foam the gaps under it. I added a bulb seal to the bottom of a wood door. We've handled the guy, but the door issue remains. Hey if your fridge is anything like my fridge (with the bottom freezer). A rubber door sweep made like a 30 degree difference in the hallway, it was like night and day. The gap you see when the door is closed like in the photo may be very different than when the door it open. I suspect yours is broken. 5"). I put a new gasket on the bottom of the garage door, but the floor is uneven and the edges of the door hit first, leaving a gap in the middle of about 3/4”. These strips came with screws and screw holes. Just replace bottom door seal with new. LG calls it a stopper. I pulled it apart and found that the evaporator coils were frosted over with ice built up. If there is an issue with your Garage Door, ask a question. Otherwise cutting a little off the side with a saw. I think you can solve it all ways (extra weatherstripping, resetting door frame, slightly jacking the left side of that door), ranging from less involved to addressing the root cause of the gap. I have a kitchenaid fridge with double doors and freezer drawer on the bottom. This is assuming door is plumb to the jamb everywhere else. Pool noodles. The easy way to determine if adjusting the door would help, the need to level the specific doors, would be to put that level on each door. You could remove the door entirely and make an angle plane cut across the top. It currently has a seal on the bottom , but the problem is it isn’t hung evenly. It's hard to tell if the gap is uneven or if it is just from the glare and box in the way. You may find that 1. A 3" gap you're not going to be able to seal. If you can't turn it further in one direction, don't continue. I noticed that the door is more spaced out in that single corner. You will likely have to pull the top in and let the bottom out a bit to have the door move smoothly. Is there a way to adjust the door for only this part of the door to come closer to the freezer? That part of the door comes out about a 1/4 more than the other sides. It’s a old house built in the 60s that has shifted a lot so I’d imagine the door opening/frame has become askew. Tracks match the door for level. You can access these screws with the door in place by having it in the open position and reaching the brackets from the backside (or inside of the closet. If it works like sliding windows, you may be able to open the door all the way and then lift it up and out of the track, set the bottom on the ground outside of the track and keep "kicking" the bottom of the door out from the doorframe to take the door out of the track completely. I basically didn't notice at all until it started getting cold. Then shim the threshold up to match the sweep. The right door has the same issue as the post. Now adjust the threshold so it lightly contacts the door bottom all the way across. I checked the seals and they all appear to be compressed equally. it may be caused because the door has dropped overtime so the bottom is hitting ect, you can adjust the door easily and put a washer underneath. You might be able to buy a replacement. The bottom just has 3 small guides that the bottom of the door sits in. The door jamb is square from top to bottom. I haven't actually checked to see if the door is warped, but even if it is, I can't imagine spending the money to replace it so I'll need to accommodate it. I don't want to mess anything up. You may have to remove the molding on the interior and exterior. But now, there's a small opening in the bottom right corner. Reddit . Putting them behind the bottom hinge (and half as thick in the middle hinge) will push the bottom corner out, lift the bottom corner, and close the gap at the top edge. They can also snag on things that you place in the closet. Had to glue in scrims to fill the old hinge frame depressions and sanded them with the sander. So I live in a 'vintage-y' apartment, which basically means its a super old construction. It depends on what kind of door you have, metal or wood? Thickness of door, also manufacturer can mail a difference. (Warning: You might have to wiggle the door after and adjustment. Pending on your situation of uneven. In fact, I’d bet on it. It goes from 1/8" at the top to 1/2" at the bottom. The doors are uneven and I have tried following the directions to insert a 1/8 inch Allan key under the right door in the slot to raise the door. Looks like the door might be just a bit to wide for the opening. The door is semi-frameless and doesn't really have a seal at the bottom just a piece of aluminum trim that sits in front of the doors. Pictures The bottom of my front door is letting air and bugs in. I replaced the rubber seal on the bottom of my garage door to try and get a better air seal. For example the wayne Dalton 9100 isn’t as thick as most other doors so the 1 3/8” retainers are too wide. this is what I've done, but it will keep going So, basically the doors are uneven and won’t close. I want to install a hasp and staple on a steel door and have the tools and parts for it but the problem is that I can't install a regular hasp and staple on it since the door trim is unlevel/unflush with the door itself. If the gap is less on the left than the right, then yes, you need to see which is out of level, The door or the floor. (I was going to add a picture but I wasn’t allowed to upload one) Edit - refrigerator Posted by u/jbyeung - 2 votes and no comments Make a mark on the door of where it's rubbing the floor, then take the door off the hinges and sand the bottom of it enough that it will clear. I'm sure not bringing him back to fix anything. With a 4" foam roller, it took me one coat of primer plus three coats of Sherwin-Williams Solo to get decent coverage on one face (plus edges) of a flat hollow-core door. It'll be expensive to fix it "the right way" with hacking out the bad concrete spot and pouring new; wondering if anyone has ever seen a bottom door seal product, or jerry-rigged solution to handle an uneven surface. Add a adjustable door sweep (just float it on the bottom of the door to find the right spot) and remove the threshold. If the wall is out of plumb, split the difference, i. The other part of the "ajar" is that if you're facing the door from the living room and you look on the right side of the door where the door meets the little 1/2in wood strip of the jamb, the bottom of the "door to strip" makes direct contact and the top of the "door to strip" has a like, idk, 1/8in gap (think as if someone is pushing in on Just had a brand new GE above-the-range microwave installed. Any easy fixes for closing the gap at the top and evening this door out? Thinking maybe a spacer behind the top door hinge? Or potentially add one behind the frame (which sounds difficult). I took out the tub and made a closet. Noticed some mouse activity in the garage recently, and most likely they are coming in through the bottom of the door. 5 inches from the jamb at the bottom of the jamb and 4. We replaced the springs several months ago and didn't have any issues until now. The guy did an incredibly bad job, cutting the door at a significant angle. In trimming the door, you actually have a couple options, simply make a square cut that will show off the uneven floor, or cut the door parallel to the floor so that the odd angle isn't quite as noticeable. Is one side 2” lower than the As the title states my refrigerator doors are uneven. 2nd two pictures show RH and LH again when the door is fully open. Now the doors are very uneven. A local carpenter did a lot of the work, and he shortened the door. So the door and tracks will be raised 3" on the low floor side. If the space feels like it gets wider or narrower, then the doors are out of adjustment (not the floor). Door is a double slider and the doors do bypass each other. Not shutting immediately after is abnormal. Sometimes I put a THIN piece of cardboard between the hinge and door jamb. Fits great at the bottom. I'm thinking of doing the exact same thing in our mudroom-- do you have any advice to share? Specifically wondering about your thoughts on using the 3 door system (vs 4?) and whether there would be an issue if the doors overlap when they are fully closed (i. The tabs 'prevent the opposite door from going too far back when closed. (Not literally kicking, I mean scooch it out). It'll help keep things stable. When the garage door starts closing the thick, black bottom weather seal folds as the garage door rolls down and once it lands/closes it leaves a small opening, like a fold, enough for mice to easily walk in like they own the place. Get a string or thread and a weight, make the hinge side plumb. Never twigged that I’d wedged it on the carpet so there was no clearance to open the door any further!!! My garage floor is uneven where one half makes good contact with the door/seal but the other half has a good 1/2-3/4” gap that always lets water in during any wind mixed with rain. Notice that the cable on the LH side has less tension on it than RH. Did I mention thin! If you do not how cardboard, fold a piece of paper two or three times. So I'm basically putting in a wall about 8 feet long to section the bathroom between a toilet and sink and a walk-in closet. For those doors I used a brush sweep. Don't really want to caulk it but not sure what my options would be. The door is uneven with the floor across the bottom, such that the latch side is snug and then drops to roughly an inch gap on the hinge side. Im wondering if there is a easy fix. Caulk and maybe even a trim piece inside to clean up the look, plus removing the uneven appearance. Then go to next step. Assuming this is a tilt door, with springs at the side of the opening, You might find that the arms need adjustment or are wearing and need replacement. Replace pin and confirm it works. This model has an adjustment screw at the bottom of the right door, but that doesn’t seem to do much. Looking for correct information on how to level the door out. You probably cant see it that well in the picture, but there is a section about 30-40% of the bottom surface that pools a small layer of water when the sink is otherwise empty. In the industry? Feel free to share experiences and advice to fellow Garage Door experts. You'd have to scribe and rip your own jams and mortise your own hinges etc. They come in a couple of colors, to either match your hinges, or your white door trim. However, I removed the left door plate and problem still remains. but some areas in the middle isn't. I didn't take a picture of this but this door only has one spring, closer to the LH drum. IE the perpendicular wall at the corner is about 2. The right door appears to stick out further than the left door. The sides and bottom came out easy peasy. Cut a 1/4" of the bottom of the taller door jam side with a sawsall. Used the router to reverse the hinges (door matched other doors but was wrong swing. I believe the top half is about 1/2-inch gap, and the bottom half is up to 1" gap. We have mice problems (they're coming up from the basement through this space under the door due to openings in our foundation - a separate problem that is being addressed. Aug 11, 2023 · The other part of the "ajar" is that if you're facing the door from the living room and you look on the right side of the door where the door meets the little 1/2in wood strip of the jamb, the bottom of the "door to strip" makes direct contact and the top of the "door to strip" has a like, idk, 1/8in gap (think as if someone is pushing in on Feb 9, 2020 · If you have to cut your door down anyway, yes, cut your jamb legs appropriately first, then trim the bottom of the door to fit. , the space of the opening isn't standard, so there would be about 10 inches of overlap when the doors are fully closed). But, If you are able to remove the seal and remove and replace the seal track, then you could add shims between the track and the door. zwzq kmapn lidgwvh drlt lnmc kohasqv iynf ujxaxk davts ajjf